Waterfalls, wishing wells, lighthouses, and a horse replica give this Cataumet spot a classic feel. Its ice cream shop, Lazy Sundaes, serves up Richardson’s ice cream. 1370 Route 28A, 508-326-8160
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This Eastham spot is known for its lighthouses, waterfall, and soft-serve ice cream. Hit up the arcade’s 15 classic pinball machines to feel like a kid again. 5270 Route 6A, 508-255-6321
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This Sandwich staple isn’t fancy, but it doesn’t need to be. Its 36 retro holes — including an undulating one named “Lumpty Dumpty” — are a town tradition. Bible verses scattered throughout the course are a quaint touch. 159 Route 6A, 774-413-9782
The 36 holes at this South Yarmouth icon wind through pirate ships, caves, and waterfalls — and feature a “yo-ho-ho” soundtrack. Don’t forget to grab a photo with Captain Jack Sparrow on your way out. 728 Route 28, 508-394-6200
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With waterfalls and an Indiana Jones-style giant skull, excitement is around every corner at this popular South Yarmouth spot. Also, check out the go-karts, arcade, and a driving range. 934 Route 28, 508-398-6070
Hands down, the prettiest mini-golf course on the Cape. The holes at this Dennis Port mainstay are lined by flower beds so gorgeous you’ll need to remind yourself to putt. 197 Shad Hole Road, Dennis Port, 508-394-1411
–Susan Moeller
Taking in Main Street vibes on the Cape
The best way to enjoy a Cape Cod evening may be the simplest: Pick a town and amble down its main thoroughfare. You’ll relax at the sight of sun-kissed arms and flip-flops and the sound of a busker’s music.
Hyannis’s Main Street offers the usual souvenirs and fudge but also tacos, henna tattoos (or a real tattoo), busy bars, and free concerts on the Hyannis Village Green (artsbarnstable.com). Falmouth’s version is more staid with galleries, white-tablecloth restaurants, and fashionable shops, but also concerts on Thursday nights. Chatham’s looks like a movie set and offers lots of kitschy shark gear.
Then there’s Provincetown’s inimitable Commercial Street. Indulge in the best people-watching ever while noshing on malassadas (fried dough) from the Provincetown Portuguese Bakery (299 Commercial Street, 508-487-1803). Top it off with a cone at Lewis Brothers Homemade Ice Cream (310 Commercial Street, 508-487-0977) and head to MacMillan Pier to watch the sun set. It’s a pure Cape experience.
–Susan Moeller
Game plan for the perfect Cape League Day
“It’s a beautiful day for a ballgame ... Let’s play two!” That iconic catchphrase from Ernie Banks, the Chicago Cubs legend, evokes a time when summer evenings were built around cool lemonade and the crack of the bat. While those days may be gone, you can step back in time and experience baseball in its purest form, thanks to the Cape Cod Baseball League.
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Beginning in June, baseball becomes a fixture on the Cape, with games at least five nights a week until early August. At high schools and small-town fields, evenings are a slice of bygone Americana: Kids chase foul balls (which they can keep) and fans sit behind home plate in lawn chairs they bring from home. Not to mention that admission is free. And the league’s slogan — “Where the stars of tomorrow shine tonight” — is more than just marketing: More than 1,600 Cape League alumni have gone on to play in the majors.
From Wareham to Orleans, only 50 miles separates the 10 teams, so in the spirit of Banks, it’s possible to catch a triple-header of games in the same evening. Throw in a few classic non-baseball activities and you have yourself a perfect Cape League day. Here’s one way to do it, but check the league’s website for the most up-to-date schedule:
Start in West Yarmouth with an afternoon swim at Seagull Beach. It’s a short drive to Capt. Parker’s Pub (668 Route 28, 508-771-4266) for a cup of chowder and a lobster roll. Your first game is at Merrill “Red” Wilson Field at Dennis-Yarmouth Regional High School (210 Station Avenue, South Yarmouth), home of the Yarmouth-Dennis Red Sox.
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It’s no sin to leave early — sampling different parks is part of the league’s charm — so after a few innings, head to Harwich’s Whitehouse Field at Monomoy Regional High School (75 Oak Street), to see the Mariners, the defending champions. Make sure to stop at the Ice Cream Smuggler (1555 Route 6A, East Dennis, 508-385-5307). We cap off our triple-header in Chatham, with the Anglers at Veterans Field (702 Main Street). You could see a blazing sunset or fog could enshroud the park. Either way, you’re in for a memorable time.
This is the Cape League ... let’s play ball!
– Bill Higgins
Family camp: Summer’s best kept secret
There is a quiet stretch of Washington Pond in Maine, where the sun melts into the trees and loons call across the water. It’s here the MacPhee family of Pawtucket, Rhode Island, settle into their summer rhythm. There’s no packing for day trips or researching dinner options. At Medomak Family Camp, they unplug, unwind, and reconnect — not just with each other, but with a sense of community that keeps them coming back year after year.
For the past nine summers (save for 2020), Celeste and Michael MacPhee and their now teenage sons, Nolan and Myles, have made the 3.5-hour drive north to Medomak. They’re not alone in their devotion: Families from all over the country (and the world) converge here, lured by a shared yearning for simpler times and meaningful connections. The MacPhees even coordinate weeks with other families they’ve become close with over the years.
“Our first year, after the last campfire on Friday night, I went back to my cabin and cried because I didn’t want to leave the next day,” Celeste MacPhee says. “But then I remembered that I make the travel plans for my family and we could just keep coming back, so that’s what we do.”
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Family camps such as Medomak are summer’s best-kept secret — a blend of nostalgia, play, and peace where kids can roam, grown-ups can breathe (or go on a field trip to a local gin distillery), and everyone feels just a little more themselves. Mornings might mean fishing with a counselor, afternoons bring kayaking or soapstone carving, and evenings end with campfires and barn dances.
It’s not all marshmallows and bug spray — though there’s plenty of both. For Celeste, it’s watching her quiet son become the kid others look up to. And according to owner Elianna Lutz, even adults break out of their comfort zone at the end-of-camp talent show, picking up instruments after years of not playing, leading singalongs and parodies.
“It is a testament to the amazing community we can build in just five short days,” Lutz says. “Adults and children alike are often left in tears after the final ‘good night.’ It never gets old.” 301-854-9100; adults $1,550, children from $1,290
Two more to try
Accessible only by boat, this YMCA-run camp offers a unique island retreat on New Hampshire’s Lake Winnipesaukee. “Sandy Island dances are a long-held and much-loved tradition,” director Angelo Firenze says. Families enjoy rustic lakefront cabins and a variety of activities including tubing, waterskiing, crafts, and evening campfires. 603-569-2725; weekly rate $1,175 per adult, with lower rates for children and those 65 and older.
Run by the Aloha Foundation, which operates several summer camps, Ohana offers a laid-back, eco-conscious getaway in Vermont’s Green Mountains with a farm-to-table dining philosophy. Families look forward to activities such as woodworking, belly dancing, making pottery, and navigating a ropes course. 802-333-3460; weekly rate for one-bedroom cabins starts at $3,000, with additional fees for groups larger than two.
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- Erinne Magee
Tips for an unplugged family vacation
Ever booked a cabin in the woods, then cringed as your children (or others) ran to plug in their iPads and connect to Wi-Fi? You’re not alone. Fortunately, there are ways to bring the family together that don’t involve digital devices. Here are five of my favorites.
Board games, revisited: Many classic games have gotten cheeky upgrades, such as Clue: The Golden Girls edition (you may need to explain who they are, but still) and UNO: Show ‘Em No Mercy. And they’re as fun as ever.
Bonding with bracelets: The timeless art of friendship bracelets has enjoyed a resurgence thanks to Taylor Swift, but even non-Swifties can bedazzle. Snag some supplies at Seaport’s Little Words Project (68 Seaport Boulevard, 908-540-7150).
Chef it up: Cooking as a family teaches life skills and encourages bonding, hopefully with palatable results. Check out the America’s Test Kitchen suite of kid-centric cookbooks for ideas, including The Complete Cookbook for Teen Chefs and the Young Chef cookbooks.
Escape rooms in a box: No longer mere party destinations, these immersive riddles now come in box form. The “Exit: The Game” series by Thames & Kosmos are among the best: Break free from sinister mansions and forgotten islands (hopefully your own kids won’t want to escape, too).
YA novels to the rescue: Many iconic books for younger audiences have inspired modern spinoffs: Anne of Green Gables has spawned Anne of Manhattan, Meg & Jo reimagines the Little Women sisters, and an updated Encyclopedia Brown detective mystery collection is due out next month. Find a cozy nook, unplug, and enjoy the simple pleasures of cabin life.
– Kara Baskin
Read more from the Summer Travel issue:
- Spy writer John le Carré left clues for traveling in Cornwall, England. We followed the trail.
